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Click on any
picture to see an enlarged view |
1.
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Assemble CF Spar to Horizontal
Wing/Fuse. I like to use RC-56 glue for this, because it
provides a strong and flexible joint. Wipe the spar with Scotch Brite in area to be glued. This will remove any contaminants and
ensure that glue will adhere properly. Next glue the spar to the
main wing as shown. After applying glue to both pieces, separate
them and let the glue dry for 6-8 minutes. Now carefully tape
the spar in place, centering it both horizontally and
vertically. When satisfied with the alignment, hold the spar in
place with small strips of masking tape until the glue sets
completely. Remove the tape and then glue the front wing/fuse to
the spar, using weights to hold the pieces in place over a flat
surface while the glue dries. Probably a good idea to use wax
paper or saran wrap to keep from gluing the parts to your flat
work surface. |
5.
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Glue motors in place.
Rotor removed from motor, ready to
install. Add RC-56 to slots as shown.
It's helpful to spread the RC-56 with a toothpick.
Slide motors into
place. Check wire orientation. Also, check motor alignment for
zero offsets.
Your finished
installation should look like this. You can hot-glue or tape the
wire neatly in place. |
2.
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Cut servo
openings in fuse top & nacelles.
Test-fit "tiperons"
& admire your handywork.
Draw servo outlines &
cut openings with #11 X-Acto.
Cuts should be a
slip-fit for your servos.
Push servo into
foam to create "dents" for mounting lugs.
Mounting lug "dents"
shown here.
Cut out the dents with
#11 X-Acto.
Repeat process in
nacelles for tiperon servos.
Finished tiperon servo
cutouts.
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6.
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Assemble wing "tiperons".
Cut hinge
slots with sharp X-Acto.
Remove hinges from
parts sheet. Cut-tabs are arranged to facilitate easy rotation
removal. Inboard combination hinge/control horn shown here.
After gluing hinges and hinge/control horns in place with RC-56,
slide tiperons onto spar to ensure everything properly rotates
without binding. Let dry.
Glue laser-cut retainers in place with RC-56. A toothpick is
very helpful here. Apply glue only to outside of retainer.
You should have a nice
bead of RC-56 all the way around the retainer as shown. Set
aside to dry completely (overnight). |
3.
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Glue top fuselage & motor nacelles to wing/fuse assembly.
I prefer using RC-56 glue here also, but you can use UHU or GWS
foam contact cement if you're in a hurry. The tab-slot pieces
make this operation reasonably "goof-proof". Make sure these
pieces are at a right angle relative to the horizontal wing/fuse
while the glue dries.
If you use contact cement on the motor nacelles, slice them in
half first so you can glue the top-half nacelle and bottom-half
nacelle separately to the wing. This eliminates the need to
slide the nacelles into place. |
7.
Finished
view. Tape runs full-length on this side. Note "straight shot"
of control rods from servo arms to control horns. Hinge line gap
is approx 1/32".
"VEE" side. Tape on this
side contacts tape on other side in the 1/32" hinge line. Note
control horn support glued in place.
"Back" side of rudder and
elevator servos. Servo wires exit to bottom of fuse where they
plug into receiver. |
Hinge rudder and elevator.
I use
clear packing tape cut in half lengthwise. Place a strip of tape
along the top side of the elevator and along the right side of
the rudder. Leave half the strip exposed for attachment to the
plane. Position the elevator, leaving 1/32" air gap, and press
tape firmly in place on the stab. Finish by placing 1" wide tape
strips on the bottom side, making sure that the bottom tape
strip contacts the top tape strip in the hinge-line. This
effectively "locks" your control surface and prevents it from
detaching during flight. Repeat for rudder.
"Eyeball" the control horn positions and cut slots in rudder and
elevator for the horns. Locate the slots so control rods will be
parallel to the plane with controls in neutral position. Glue
horns in place.
Make control rods from 1/32" music wire supplied. You can use
Z-bends at both ends of control rods to avoid the expense of
buying any locking devices. If you do this for the rudder, you
will have to fasten your control rod in place BEFORE gluing in
the control horn, since you can't remove the servo arm.
Make a Z-bend at end of control rod. Assemble control rod to
servo arm. Align control surface to neutral and mark location
for other Z-bend with a fine-tip felt pen. Remove control rod,
make other Z-bend, and reassemble. Voila! Perfect!.... well,
almost!
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4.
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Glue 4 servos in place.
First, make sure your
servo arms are centered when your radio is on and your
transmitter sticks are at neutral. In particular, the rudder
servo arm is inaccessible once the servo is glued in place.
I like using low-temp hot glue for attaching servos. If it ever
becomes necessary to remove them, it's pretty easy to remove the
bead of glue without damaging the foam or the servos.
Rudder & elevator servo
in place.
Saw off tiperon servo
mounting lugs if necessary to get proper lateral servo position.
Servo location for
proper linkage alignment & tiperon control.
For the tiperon servos, make sure servos are
positioned laterally so the servo arm is just inside the
outboard edge of the wing. |
8.
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Mount receiver and hook up all
wiring.
Locate receiver and hook up all wiring. Mark where servo wires
cross fuselage and cut slots in fuselage bottom piece. Then glue
bottom fuselage in place.
Use a #11 X-Acto blade
to cut slots for routing servo wires to bottom of plane.
Slots should be just
big enough for servo connectors to fit through.
Here's the wiring
layout on my plane. |
